New Year‘s Eve in Italy…. – The Educated Traveller

It’s New Year’s Eve and as the year gradually wanes, a ferry transports us across the lagoon, buoyantly conveying dozens of passengers across placid waters to the city of almost everybody’s dreams.

Venice is a magnet to so many; artists, writers, dreamers and thinkers. I’m one of them a spirit hopelessly beguiled by this magical confection of palaces, canals, bridges and boats. In the twilight hours of 2023 the first order of the last day is a piano concert at Palazzo Polignac. A kind invitation from a friend came at just the right time.

There are two magnificent grand pianos set up on the piano nobile of the palace, played by two pianists each. A concert of eight hands, brilliantly put together and orchestrated by world class musicians. We mere mortals had only to watch and listen and appreciate.

When the view beyond the pianos is the Grand Canal and the tapestries on the walls are almost certainly from the Gobelins workshop in Paris, it’s easy to be fully present and in awe. Even the audience are inspiring, a cultured international crowd, wearing smartly cut trousers and silk shirts. Strings of pearls and cashmere shawls remind me of Covent Garden. We are treated to a series of musical romps, finishing up with a playful Italian polka. The perfect start to the morning of New Year’s Eve.

Emerging from the concert into the courtyards and recesses of the historic palace I’m reminded of the life that Venetians have lived for centuries. There’s an ancient gondola on show by the water gate complete with the black leather cover or feltz constructed to provide cover and privacy for those riding in the gondola. Immediately I think of Hemingway romancing the young Adriana at The Gritti and on the Grand Canal, when she was just 18 and he was almost 50. Only in Venice.

Almost any time is spritz time in Venice, so a quick stop at Gino’s for an Aperol Spritz and a Prosecco are the order of the day. The bar is packed and noisy, Venetians, visitors and the crowd from the concert jostling to be served. We battled through. I’m good at getting to the bar (it’s my Scouse upbringing – often comes in handy).

Next it’s a trot to Santo Stefano to view the new Genesis Exhibition featuring the Venetian artist Davide Battistin. He’s new to me and I’m in love. Large canvases, painted with oils, atmospheric, powerful, evocative. Familiar Venetian scenes painted in a style reminiscent of Turner. Magical.

Then it’s back on the boat to Fusina, tonight we are having New Year’s Eve on the Brenta Canal staying in a historic Palladian style villa. Just a few hours left of 2023 and time to get the party dress on…..

Got to get ready, the hours are ticking by, time is quite literally running out….